Introduction

I’ve been thinking about getting another bike someday, and have started to brainstorm some options. In short, I think I would like to get some sort of “all-arounder” type frame, that could work on the road or on gravel, and could also do some touring if I wanted. I’ve been interested in trying some bike touring for a long while, and would like to open that possibility in the future. I’ve also been inspired recently by Probably Riding on YouTube who makes nice videos, and seems to enjoy these kinds of rides. I don’t think I need anything that is ultra tour-oriented, but I’d like to be able to do a bit of this.

There are a lot of options in this kind of bike category, so I will use this post to start keeping track of some options. The set of manufacturers on my list right now are: Rivendell, Velo Orange, Crust, and Surly. Each of these have a whole bunch of different options. I want to learn more about these and try to get a better sense of what might be best for me.

I am also going to use this space to reflect a bit on different types of riding options in this category that could be of interest to me.

What sort of riding?

I’m interested in some short-range touring & gravel riding as well as road riding.

I also want something that I can ride in the city when I need to carry some things around (e.g. getting groceries).

Where?

  • Middlesex Fells

Resources

Some bike options

Rivendell

Rivendell has a lot of different options that are fairly flexible in my understanding. A general appeal of these bikes is that they have really nice construction and are all steel frames (mostly lugged) in nice colors. They are based in Walnut Creek, so I would love to visit them next time I am in SF.

Here’s how they break it down:

Roadish:

Comboish:

  • A Homer Hilsen: “between a too-skinny/ techy modern road bike and a gonzo-bozo techy mountain bike. But if you ride on roads exclusively, it’s a pure road bike, with no compromises. Its ability to fit tires to 43mm with fenders and a rack or two doesn’t detract from its roadiness AT ALL. It is the most versatile, useful road bike we make or can even imagine.”
    • “BUILT FOR: Any road, paved or gravel, and moderate fire trails. Light touring, with loads to 30lbs (or so). It’s the most versatile road bike we make, and has been since we introduced it in 2006.”
    • Recommended brake setup is “Long-reach sidepulls, or centerpulls”
    • Minimum tires are 38mm they suggest.
    • Blue color is nice.
  • Sam Hillborne

Trailish:

  • Atlantis: “This has been our flagship frame since we introduced it in 1999. It’s an all-‘rounder, originally designed for almost anything you’ll need or want to do on a bicycle: loaded touring, trails, commutes, and day rides. The current Atlantis defines our approach to bikes and our ride and fit and aesthetics as well as any bike can.”
  • Joe Appaloosa – essentially the Atlantis but “made in Taiwan” version.

Honestly, it seems like people build these frames in all sorts of ways, so many of these options could work for many puposes. For my purposes, probably the A Homer Hilsen could work; I also find the Atlantis appealing though it’s probably a bit more tour-oriented than I really need.

Velo Orange

  • Polyvalent: “The Polyvalent is Velo Orange’s “do-it-all” frameset. It is the ideal platform to build a sturdy tourer, practical commuter, comfortable all-day randonneur, or a rugged gravel bike.” Steel frame, welded, clears 650B x 48mm. Rack and fender mounts. IS mount disc brakes recommended.

Surly

  • Straggler: this seems like a good option for me in the Surly world. Steel, clears 700x41mm tires, drops; billed by Surly as good for road, gravel, and short-range touring. Disc brakes.
    • I tried one of these from FB market and it felt pretty “boaty” to me. Makes me feel like I maybe want something slightly more on the agile side.
  • Crosscheck
  • Disc Trucker
  • Long Haul Trucker

Crust

I know they make some good options in this category, but I need to learn more.

  • Bombora
  • Evasion

I have been looking at a lot of reviews of the Bombora, and it seems like a really good fit for me potentially. It’s definitely not cheap, but could be a “dream” frame.

Some Bombora reviews w/notes:

  • Queer Cyclist
    • Mullet drivetrain does seem chill.
  • Path Less Pedaled
    • Has “semi-tucked” rear end. Rear chainstay length: 425 (slightly shorter than typical all-arounder 430, but not as short as road). Feels “zippy”. I think “tucked” refers to how much rear wheel is tucked under the seat.
    • 858 tubing; on thinner side. Springy, fun.
    • Doesn’t ride like a full-on touring bike; can use as a road bike, gravel-grinder bike.
    • Compare to midnight special – more relaxed front end, jumpier rear?
    • Cross check – Bombora more chill front.
    • “Mullet bike” - chill in front, spicy rear?
    • Good set of rack mounts.
  • Hailey’s Crust Bombora: A Work in Progress

Some important notes:

  • Designed around 650b, but can run 700c with some limitations.
  • “Takes a ROAD crank. Ideally 1x with a maximum 44 tooth chainring. You can set it up 2x, but it’s on you to figure that out.”

All City

A lot of people seem to recommend the Gorilla Monsoon as an alternative to the Bombora. Claims: cheapers, similar geo, heavier?

Bassi

Rune?

https://www.runebicycles.com/

Components

A lot to consider here. For some reason (maybe my fixed gear background) I have an impulse to keep things pretty simple if possible.

Drivetrain

Probably 1x?

Why is 1x so common for gravel? Some discussion here

Simpler, less overlap/redundancy. Slightly lighter. Looks cleaner, no front derraileur. More viable now with wide-ranges casettes and improvements in derailleurs? Better chain retention on rough terrain. More broadly, supporting only 1x means more flexibility on frame design. Cheaper.

Downside is less gear range, but maybe not much? Larger jumps between gears. Chain angle and efficiecy concerns? Chain runs at more extreme angles on 1x setup. Depends on how relevant to riding you’re doing. People seem to like 2x more when doing more road riding; 1x more dirt/gravel/rougher.

Notes/links

Wheelset

650b or 700c? One link

I guess it would be nice to have a frame that could accomodate either.

Handlebars

Probably some wide drops?

Nitto x Crust drop?

Brakes / Brake levers

Disc brakes. What kind? Hydraulic/cable?

Notes on Buying a Used Bike

Some advice and notes from ChatGPT and elsewhere:

Basics

  • Maintenance History: Inquire about how the bike has been maintained. Regular maintenance records indicate a well-cared-for bike.
  • Usage: Ask how often and for what purposes the bike was used. Frequent off-road or harsh weather use can cause more wear and tear.
  • Reason for Selling: Understanding why the seller is parting with the bike can provide insight into its condition.

Check for wear and damage:

  • Frame and Fork: Look for cracks, dents, or signs of damage. Check welds and paint for any abnormalities.
  • Drivetrain: Examine the chain, cassette, and chainrings for wear. A worn drivetrain can be expensive to replace.
  • Brakes and Tires: Check the brake pads, rotors (if disc brakes), and tire tread. Worn-out components here can indicate heavy use.
  • Bearings: Ask if the headset, bottom bracket, and wheel bearings are in good condition. Listen for any unusual noises during a test ride (if possible).

How do I do this?

Chain:

  • Visual Inspection: Look for rust, corrosion, or stiff links. A chain that looks rusty or has stiff links might need replacing.
  • Chain Wear Indicator: Use a chain wear indicator tool if you have one. Insert the tool into the chain; if it fits fully, the chain is worn out and needs replacement.

Cassette:

  • Teeth Condition: Inspect the teeth on the cassette cogs. They should be symmetrical and not look like shark fins. Worn teeth can cause poor shifting and chain slippage.
  • Side-to-Side Movement: Check for excessive play or wobbling in the cassette when you spin the wheel. This could indicate worn bearings or a loose cassette.

Chainrings:

  • Teeth Condition: Like the cassette, the teeth on the chainrings should not be excessively worn or look like shark fins.
  • Bolts: Ensure the chainring bolts are tight and secure.

Derailleurs:

  • Alignment: Check that both the front and rear derailleurs are properly aligned and not bent. A bent derailleur can cause poor shifting.
  • Movement: Shift through all the gears to see if the derailleurs move smoothly and precisely. Any hesitation or difficulty in shifting might indicate issues.

Tread Wear:

  • Inspection: Examine the tire tread for wear. Tires with shallow or uneven tread may need replacing.
  • Cracks and Cuts: Look for any cracks, cuts, or bulges in the tire sidewalls or tread. These are signs that the tires are aging or have been damaged.

Tire Pressure:

  • Inflation: Check if the tires hold air properly. Inflate them to the recommended pressure (indicated on the sidewall) and see if they stay inflated over time.
  • Valve Condition: Inspect the valve stems for any damage or leaks.

Wheel Condition:

  • Spokes: Check for any loose or broken spokes. Spin the wheels to ensure they run true (no wobbling side to side).
  • Rim Damage: Look for dents, cracks, or flat spots on the rims.